Char koay teow (stir-fried rice noodles) is the iconic Penang street food dish, copied all over Malaysia, but never tastes better than sitting at a low pavement table outside a hawker stall in one of George Town's narrow back streets. Lean Joo Sean has been setting up outside the Sin Guat Keong coffee shop at 5.30pm every day since 1954. You can't miss him with his tall white chef's hat and the clouds of smoke that billow up each time he fires his wok over a flaming charcoal fire. A plate costs 4.50 Malaysian ringgit, and he cooks right through till midnight as a steady queue forms for these exquisite fried noodles, prepared to a secret recipe that includes fresh mantis prawns.
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